Tromsø Winter Itinerary: Northern Lights, Reindeer & Arctic Views
Five days of snow, cold air, Sámi stories and one very magical night sky
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Planning a winter trip to Tromsø and wondering how to fill your days? This 5-day Tromsø winter itinerary is built around our own trip in February: the northern lights (on a tour and on our own), the Arctic Cathedral and the cable car, a reindeer farm with a taste of Sámi culture, Sommarøya and the Troll Museum.
I’ll be honest with you from the start: the lights didn’t show up for our guided tour, and our most magical night was the one we planned ourselves. That’s the thing with the aurora, it does exactly what it wants. So here’s how our five days went, what I’d happily do again and what I’d book with a bit more time.
Our aurora luck was mixed. We saw it from the plane, then a little more from Telegrafbukta beach on our first evening, then nothing at all on our guided tour on day 2, and finally the big show on day 3 when we went out on our own. If you can, give yourself several nights to try.
Day 1: Arriving in Tromsø and Our First Northern Lights
We landed at 6pm, so there wasn’t much time for sightseeing, but Tromsø didn’t make us wait for the magic. We spotted the northern lights from the plane! It was an epic way to arrive, and a moment I won’t forget in a hurry.
Later that evening we walked to Telegrafbukta, a nearby beach, where we saw a little more aurora activity and had our first proper play in the snow. It was properly cold too, well into the minus double digits.
On the way to the airport, my partner left his coat, gloves and hat in the car. Which meant that on our very first night in the Arctic, in the minus double digits, he had no warm layer at all. His solution was to pile on several hoodies, finished off with my purple knitwear set. I’ll let you picture it. We bought him a new coat the following day, as soon as the shops opened.
Daylight changes fast in February. The polar night ends in mid-January, and in early February you get about 5 hours of daylight, rising to about 9.5 hours by the end of the month. Sunrise moves from around 9:25am on 1 February to around 7:15am on 28 February. Temperatures average about -1°C by day and -5°C at night, but wind chill can make it feel much colder, and inland tours can drop to around -20°C.
Day 2: Cathedral, Cable Car and a Northern Lights Tour
📍 The Arctic Cathedral and the cable car are both on the Tromsdalen side of the bridge.
We kicked off the day with a coffee, then set off on foot across the bridge. There is public transport if you’d rather, but I think walking it is an experience in itself. Just watch out for the wind! The bridge opened in 1960, and the views back over the city are lovely.
On the other side is the Arctic Cathedral. It’s officially a church rather than a cathedral, and it was dedicated in 1965. The roof is made of 11 aluminium-coated concrete panels on each side, and there’s a glass mosaic by Victor Sparre, added in 1972. If you go inside, look out for the organ: it has 2,940 pipes and its bellows are made of reindeer hide. Entry was listed at 90 NOK, so check before you go.
Next up was the cable car. Yes, it’s touristy, but it’s worth it. I’d read before we went that the queues can be massive, so we were really lucky to arrive at a good time and find none at all. The ride takes about four to five minutes and rises to 421 metres. At the top there isn’t much to do, only vast, snow-covered land, but the views are stunning, and from up there we could see the Gate to the Arctic below us. We ate at the restaurant at the top, the only one on the mountain. The food was ok, but it was overpriced. The cable car was listed as running from 09:00 to midnight, with an adult return ticket at 645 NOK, so check current times and prices.
Worth it? The cable car
Touristy, but worth it. The views are stunning, even if the restaurant at the top is overpriced.
Back in the city we wandered around the surrounding streets, and this is where we finally tried a reindeer burger.
That evening it was time for our northern lights tour, which came with snacks and hot drinks. It started late, and we were told early on not to get our hopes up, as the weather conditions weren’t ideal. We drove far up north into the wilderness to chase the lights, and we were given snow suits to wear. We didn’t see them that night, but our driver made up for it by stopping at a frozen lake. Snow angels and a snowball fight on a frozen lake in total darkness, with only our head torches to see by, turned out to be a really fun surprise. After that, the driver took us even further north than planned and stayed out for longer than planned, but the aurora still didn’t appear.
Worth it? The northern lights tour
It was a good experience, even if it wasn’t the one we were hoping for. Sightings are never guaranteed, so go in with an open mind.
Things to do
- Cross the bridge on foot. Take in the views, but be wary of the wind.
- Arctic Cathedral. A 1965 church with a striking roof of aluminium-coated panels.
- Fjellheisen cable car. Up to 421 metres for views over the city and the snowy landscape.
- Try a reindeer burger. A local favourite.
- Northern lights tour. Wrap up warm, and be ready to wait.
Tromsø: Northern Lights Tour with Minibus, and Free Photos
A guided northern lights tour by minibus, with photos included. Sightings are not guaranteed and the tour depends on the weather.
Day 3: The Harbour, Local Food and Our Own Aurora Night
📍 We stayed in the city all day, then headed back to Telegrafbukta after dark.
Day 3 was a slower one. We stayed in the city, stopped by the Gate to the Arctic, strolled around the harbour and ate some more Norwegian food. Then, once it got dark, we went back to Telegrafbukta beach, hoping for better luck. This time there was no tour and no driver. It was just us and an aurora app.
We waited a few hours before anything happened. But when the lights finally started, it was magical. The sky filled with blue and green, and it was possibly one of the most magical moments of my life so far.
Worth it?
Absolutely. Our best aurora night was the one we planned ourselves. Just be patient, because we waited a few hours for it.
An app helps. A few popular ones are Hello Aurora (the map includes a cloud cover forecast), My Aurora Forecast & Alerts (it shows the Kp index and has live aurora webcams) and Aurora Alerts (it shows live solar wind data, but the alerts are a paid extra). The aurora needs clear skies as well as activity, so also check a cloud forecast such as Yr.no or Windy. Low and middle clouds are the ones that matter most, so if your spot looks cloudy, try somewhere nearby with fewer clouds. Forecasts aren’t perfect, so give it time.
Tromsø was a launch point for polar expeditions. Roald Amundsen lived here with the Zapffe family before his big expeditions, and in 1928 he set off from Tromsø to help search for the crashed airship Italia. He disappeared during the rescue. There’s a monument to him at Prostneset, put up in 1937 by his teammate Helmer Hanssen.
Things to do
- The Gate to the Arctic. A good stop for photos.
- The harbour. A lovely walk, especially in the daytime.
- Eat local. Treat yourself to more Norwegian food in the city’s restaurants and markets.
- Chase the lights yourself. Use an app and a cloud forecast, and be patient.
Day 4: Reindeer, Sámi Culture and Sommarøya
🚌 Sommarøya is about 1 hour 15 minutes from the city centre by road, and in winter a tour is the easiest way to get there.
Day 4 was our day trip to Kvaløya and Sommarøya, and it was by far one of the best things we did. We made a few stops along the way, but the reindeer farm was my absolute favourite. We got to feed the reindeer, then we sat in a traditional Sámi tent with a fire in the middle, learnt about Sámi culture and listened to their stories. After that we drove to Sommarøya for lunch, before heading back to Tromsø.
Kvaløya, which means “Whale Island”, is the fifth largest island in Norway, and a bridge links it to Tromsø. Sommarøya is a tiny island connected to Kvaløya by another bridge, known for its sandy beaches and its fishing industry. Winter roads can be icy and narrow, and buses are infrequent, which is why I’d book a tour.
A little background helps too. The Sámi homeland, Sápmi, stretches across northern Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia, and reindeer herding is one of the best-known parts of Sámi culture. You may also hear joik, a traditional style of singing that tells stories about people, animals or places.
Worth it?
Yes, and I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
Things to do
- Feed the reindeer. Meet the herd and hand-feed them.
- Sit in a Sámi tent. Warm up by the fire and listen to stories about Sámi life.
- Kvaløya. Enjoy the scenic drive and the stops along the way.
- Sommarøya. Have lunch on a small island known for its beaches and fishing.
We went with Wondering Reindeer, but that particular tour isn’t available this winter as they’re reorganising it, so here are two alternative tours covering the same activities.
Tromsø: Reindeer Camp and Sami Cultural Tour with Lunch
Visit a reindeer camp and learn about Sámi culture, with lunch included.
Tromsø: Sommarøy Fjord Expedition Tour & VIP Salmon Picnic
A fjord tour to the Sommarøy islands, with a salmon picnic included.
Day 5: Culture Before Flying Home
📍 The Troll Museum is in the city centre, at Kaigata 3.
For our last day we kept things gentle, with a visit to the Troll Museum and the Tromsø Museum before flying home.
So why does Tromsø have a troll museum? It’s the first museum in Norway dedicated entirely to trolls and fairy tales, and it opened in 2021. The story goes that it was started after its founder spotted a troll-like shape in the water near Tromsø. Troll stories go back to the Viking age, when they were known as jötnar, or ice giants. Local legends grew up around troll-like rock formations across Norway, and the stories were also used to warn children away from dangerous, remote places. Inside, the displays use handmade art and augmented reality, and the museum’s Sea Troll of Tromsø explains why he lives in the north. It was listed as open from 9:00 to 19:00 from November to March, so check before you go.
The Tromsø Museum is part of the Arctic University Museum of Norway, which has exhibits that include Sámi culture.
Tromsø: Troll Museum Entry Ticket
Entry to the Troll Museum, with handmade art and augmented reality exhibits on Norwegian trolls and fairy tales.
More Things to Do in Tromsø
Five days went quickly, so here are more things on my list. Opening times and prices change, so check before you go.
- Polaria. The world’s northernmost aquarium, with films about the northern lights and Svalbard.
- The Polar Museum. Tromsø’s polar history, with the expeditions of Amundsen and Nansen and the stories of trappers Henry Rudi and Wanny Woldstad.
- Tromsø Cathedral. Norway’s only wooden cathedral, and the northernmost Lutheran cathedral in the world.
- Mack Brewery and Ølhallen. The brewery was founded in 1877, and Ølhallen, opened in 1928, is the city’s oldest pub.
- Dog sledding. A winter classic, and a top pick in February. Book early, as tours sell out.
- Reindeer sledding. It can be cancelled if the snow turns slushy.
- Snowshoeing. There are evening snowshoe hikes at the top of the cable car for the northern lights.
- Snowmobiling. Usually about 90 minutes from the city.
- Whale watching. The season runs from late October to the end of January, so you’ll miss it in February.
What to Wear for Chasing the Northern Lights
Chasing the lights means standing still in the cold for hours, so what you wear really matters. Our tour gave us snow suits, but I’d still pack your own layers: thermal base layers, a warm wool or fleece mid-layer, a warm waterproof jacket, two pairs of wool socks and waterproof boots with good grip. On icy streets, microspikes help too. And please, don’t forget your coat in the car. I’ve put together a full guide to what to pack and wear for chasing the northern lights.
Where to Stay
Tromsø’s centre is compact, so staying in the middle of town makes everything easy. February is a busy month, so book your hotel and tours well ahead.
What We’d Book With More Time
These are the activities we didn’t get to this time, and a few we can’t wait to do on our next visit.
Tromsø: Arctic Fjord Cruise & Fishing Experience
A fjord cruise with a fishing experience, with lunch included.
Tromsø: Whale Watching Tour by Hybrid-Electric Boat
A whale watching tour by hybrid-electric boat. Whale season runs from late October to the end of January, so check dates.
Tromsø City Center Urban Floating Experience
An urban floating experience in the city centre.
Tromsø: Local Snowmobile
A snowmobile experience with a local guide.
Tromsø: Sami Culture and Ice Fishing Experience
A Sámi culture and ice fishing experience.
Final Thoughts on Tromsø in Winter
Tromsø gave us a bit of everything: a cold but cosy city, a reindeer farm I’d go back to in a heartbeat, a few trolls and, eventually, the northern lights on our own terms. If you take one thing from our trip, let it be this: give the aurora more than one night, wrap up warmer than you think you need to, and keep your coat out of the car. 💗
Heading to Iceland instead, or as well? Here’s our Iceland winter itinerary.
If you’ve got questions, want to share your own experience, or just want to say hello, I’d love to hear from you.
Welcome to the travel diary. I’m glad you’re here.
– Elena (and Cookie 🐾)
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