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We rolled into Nancy very late, thoroughly worn out after the Wine Route through Alsace. There was no city sightseeing that first night, just the very welcome sight of a bed. Nancy was meant to be our breather, a quiet stop wedged between two big travel days, and it started exactly like that: lights out, curtains closed, nothing seen.
Why Nancy Is the City of Golden Gates
Before I tell you about our actual day, a bit of context for why Nancy looks the way it does. The centrepiece of the city is Place Stanislas, a grand 18th century square commissioned by Stanisław Leszczyński, a former King of Poland who ended up Duke of Lorraine after losing his throne. He had the square built between 1751 and 1755 to honour his son in law, King Louis XV of France, and it earned Nancy its nickname, the City of Golden Gates, thanks to the gilded wrought iron gates that frame the square. The whole ensemble, Place Stanislas along with two neighbouring squares, was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.
Nancy also has a quieter claim to fame. At the end of the 19th century it became the birthplace of the École de Nancy, France’s answer to Art Nouveau, led by glassmaker Émile Gallé and furniture designer Louis Majorelle. You will spot the movement’s flowing, floral style worked into doorways and shopfronts if you know to look for it, even if we did not make it to the dedicated museum this time round.
The next day was a properly relaxed one. The weather stayed cloudy but mild, good walking conditions if nothing else. We spent it wandering the centre at an easy pace rather than ticking off a list, past the golden gates of Place Stanislas, through the old town towards the medieval Porte de la Craffe, and by the neo-Gothic spire of Basilique Saint-Epvre. Nothing rushed, nothing booked, just a slow loop through a genuinely handsome city centre.
I will be honest with you though. I did not fall for Nancy the way I fell for some of our other stops. It is not a bad city by any measure, the architecture is lovely and the history is real, but it did not wow me, especially coming so soon after some of the places we had already seen on this trip. It felt exactly like what we needed it to be, a calm base between two much bigger days, and it did that job well enough.
One of the many statues dotted around the old town
One of Nancy’s grand old churches
Butterfly decorations strung above the street
Would I Recommend Nancy? Only for a Weekend
I would not come back myself, but I am glad we saw it. Nancy earns its place on the list if you love architecture and history, the squares alone are worth the detour, but I would treat it as a city break or weekend getaway rather than somewhere to build a longer stay around.
If You Only Have One Day in Nancy
- Place Stanislas and its golden gates
- Porte de la Craffe, the city’s medieval gate
- Basilique Saint-Epvre
- Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nancy
- Musée de l’École de Nancy
- Parc de la Pépinière
Things to Eat, If You Have Room
- Macarons de Nancy
- Bergamotes de Nancy
- Quiche lorraine
- Potée lorraine
- Mirabelle plum treats
Where to Stay in Nancy
Villa Thermae Nancy
Spacious, clean rooms about 20 minutes’ walk from the centre, but go in with the right expectations. It is technically an apart-hotel, and although it is attached to Nancy’s thermal spa and pool complex, entry to both is charged separately and was not communicated clearly upfront. The pool area also requires specific swimwear, sold at reception if you get caught out like we did. If none of that bothers you, it is a perfectly decent stay.
Check PricesHôtel Littéraire Stendhal et Spa
This was actually our first choice, a book themed hotel right by the cathedral with a proper spa attached, but it was fully booked by the time we tried. If you can get in, it looks like a much more atmospheric stay than ours.
Check PricesBest Western Plus Crystal, Hotel, Bar & Spa
Another solid four star option in the city centre with its own indoor pool and spa included, worth a look if you want the spa experience without the separate charges we ran into.
Check PricesHotel De Guise Nancy Vieille Ville
A simpler, budget friendly base right in the old town, ideal if you would rather spend on food and sightseeing than on hotel extras.
Check PricesWhat We’d Book With More Time
We kept Nancy low key and did not book any activities ourselves, but here is what looked worth it if you have a bit more time than we did.
Historical and Culinary Tour of Nancy
A friendly small group experience that starts with a history quiz over a local aperitif, then walks the 2km route past Basilique Saint-Epvre, the old Ducal Palace, Porte de la Craffe and Place Stanislas, with optional food stops along the way. Worth knowing before you book, it currently runs in French only.
Book ThisLa Bresse: Food Tasting
Not a Nancy activity strictly speaking, La Bresse is out in the Vosges mountains, around an hour and a half’s drive away, but if you are extending your stay into the region this tasting covers Vin de Foin, cured meats and local cheeses.
Book ThisMore Things to Do in Nancy
If you’ve got questions, want to share your own experience, or just want to say hello, I’d love to hear from you.
Welcome to the travel diary. I’m glad you’re here.
– Elena (and Cookie 🐾)
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